
Class ^^ZV 

Book lJW 

Copyright W 



COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT. 



i » vri- 




VEGETABLE GARDEN 

By John Elliott Morse 




Ji VALUABLE and HELPFUL BOOK 
for Everyone Who has a Garden 



THE LIBRARY OF 
CONUKeSS, 

Two Copies Recalveb 

MAR 25 1903 

Cupyiifint Lnuy 
CLASS (L- XXc. No. 

copy 



2 



COPYRIGHTeO 1903 

BY 

JOHN ELLIOTT MORSE 

A^D 
VICK PUBLISHING CO. 






PUBLISHED BY 

VICK PUBLISHING COMPANY 

ROCHESTER, N. Y. 



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tU Uegetabk Garaeit 



WHAT TO PLANT AND HOW TO PLANT IT 




CHAPTER I. 



LOCATION — SOIL FERTILIZER. 



Location. In the city and suburban home, the matter of location 
becomes one of necessity rather than choice. The rural districts, by 
virtue of broader areas and magnificent distances, are able to make 
this more a servant of choice. As this work deals largely with the 
former two conditions, we must take what we have, and, Napoleon- 
like, make conditions. Taking then, what we have to work with, the 
study will be to direct our efforts in the most effective manner possi- 
ble. If then any choice of location is possible, let it be 
the warmest, sunniest spot available. An east to southern 
exposure is best, with just as little of shade or other obstacles as 
possible. The all-day sun, with longest distance of the garden plot 
north and south, is what we like, or if possible, the rows should run in 
that direction for best possible benefit from the sun's rays. If such a 
choice is not available do not be discouraged, but take the next best 
and see what well directed effort will accomplish with even indifferent 
surroundings. Be sure to have the garden anyway whether round, 
square or crooked. 

Soil. The ideal soil would be, of course, the rich clay or sand loam, 
but I have seen the sandy waste of back yard or the hard sterile clay 
heap made to blossom as the rose. In fact, I have never seen the 
back-yard barriers that entirely defied well directed, energetic effort. 

The practical things to consider are first, what is our soil, and what 
are its needs. Is it heavy clay soil, wet and retentive ? Then if 
possible, open it up with under drains, to draw off the water and 
admit the air. Wood ashes, leached or unleached, will assist much in 
mellowing such soils. Manure, coarse or fine will also assist in this, 
and will add the necessary humus or decayed vegetable matter, which 
we must have in any soil for best results. Any variation of clay soil, 
from the heaviest to clay loam, will be benefited by this treatment. 
Gravelly soils must have the humus which is furnished by vegetable 
matter of almost any sort, as stable manure, straw, etc., anything 
that will decay and leave its substance in the ground. Wood ashes, 
lime, or even clay soil or the street cleanings, all are good. Sandy 
soil, varying from loam to the lightest sand, must first have the humus, 
and after that, lime or ashes or both. The latter will act as a binder 
to hold the soil together, enabling it the better to withstand the 
drouth. Clay, muck or marl thickly applied will also be valuable. 



4 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 

The three principal soils then, which nature furnishes, are: first, clay, 
varying through different textures to the clay loam ; second, sandy 
soil, varying from the lightest sand to heavy loam; third, gravelly soil, 
varying from clay or sandy mixture to loam. With these points in 
view, it is comparatively easy to determine what should be the best 
treatment of our individual soils. Remembering that humus or de- 
cayed vegetable matter is indispensable, and if lacking must be sup- 
plied, then our general treatment must be to break up and mellow 
the harder soils by means as stated above, and to bind together and 
unify the lighter soils as also indicated. 

Fertilizers. There are four elements with which we can in no 
way dispense in successful gardening, viz: humus, nitrogen, phos- 
phoric acid and potash. Humus or vegetable matter has its own 
peculiar and all-important offices in plant life economics. The first is 
that of correcting or balancing up the deficiencies or shortages of soils 
varying from light soil to heavy clay. The second and most highly 
important office is that of controlling the absorption and evaporation 
of water or moisture. It will be seen then that humus is indispensa- 
ble, and the most economical way of supplying it is through the appli- 
cation of barnyard manure. 

The humus, then, may be said to be the great controller of the 
moisture supply. The other three, nitrogen, phosphoric acid and 
potash are the life-giving necessities or elements upon which the plant 
must feed. These in general are most easily and naturally supplied 
by stable manure. Lacking this, however, in reasonable supply, or 
good quality, then the deficiencies are most easily supplied by nitrate 
of soda, bone meal or phosphate and potash. The latter is most easily 
and cheaply supplied by hard wood ashes. 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



CHAPTER II. 



HOT BEDS AND COLD FRAMES. 



Directions for making the most approved kinds will be found below, 
which may be varied according to circumstances. The most conven- 
ient size of sash is five feet six inches by three feet two inches, which 
may be made at any sash and blind factory. This size of sash will 
require four rows 8x10 glass, (3)^ panes to the row, or 26 in all, and 
about four pounds of putty. Before glazing, the sash should be 
primed with white lead and oil, about one pound of lead to one quart 
of oil, or better still, white lead and yellow ochre equal parts, as it 
makes a more lasting body than the lead alone. For the priming 
coat paint thoroughly but thinly, as it is the oil and not the filler that 
is required to hold putty firmly. In laying the glass, begin at the 
lower or level end of the sash, lapping the first glass not less 
than a full half inch onto the sash rail. Lay the glass crowning side 
up and lap each glass a full quarter inch, as shingles are laid, only 
with less lap. Tack each glass firmly in place with zinc points, or, 
preferably, small brads. The putty should be as soft as possible, as 
when once set, it will adhere much more firmly than if applied too 
stiff. After the putty is set paint the sash with two coats, same as 
the priming coat, only four to five pounds of the lead and ochre 
should be used to the quart of oil. Paint thoroughly as it will pay 
many times over in the wear of the sash. The cost of the sash at 
present high price of material, will be upwards of $2.00 each, ready 
for use, exclusive of labor of painting and glazing. The labor, how- 
ever, may be done at odd times by any man, woman or handy boy, 
by following carefully the directions. Four sash of the above size 
will cover a box 12 feet eight inches by five feet six inches, and its 
capabilities if properly managed will be a revelation to the uninitiated. 

The higher side of the bed should be 18 inches in height, and the 
lower side 12 inches, giving six inches slant, which is none too much. 
Each side should have three 2x4 posts, cut four inches longer than 
the height of the respective sides, and the tops of the posts should be 
cut the same slant as the top of the bed. With the side boards nailed 
to the top of the posts the bed when completed and set up will be 
four inches above the ground, which permits the posts to be settled 
into the ground somewhat, and also gives more space for manure 
and economizes in lumber. A board 12 inches wide by five feet six 
inches in length, sawed cornerwise from end to end, will make the 
slanting end pieces and the remainder of the ends may then be filled 
with any width of board convenient. Three cross pieces one inch by 
three should be used for the sash supports, and should be let into 
the side boards even with the top and at such distance apart that the 
edges of two sash will rest on one support. Nail a strip of board on 
the outside of the lower side of the bed, letting it extend an inch or 
more above the top of the bed, which will hold the sash squarely in 
place and prevent their slipping down. 



6 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 

A cheaper box and one much in use in large operations, is made by 
simply using four corner posts same height as the side boards. When 
filling, one side is tilted, letting the posts rest on bricks or blocks to 
give sufficient slant to carry off the water when the sash are placed on. 
This latter method is, of course, somewhat cheaper, but is also far less 
satisfactory. Should the above size be too expensive, use less sash; 
one sash is better than none. 

Cold frames are made the same way, simply using soil on the inside 
and packing or banking with manure on the outside. For winter or 
early spring use, straw mats or closely fitting board covers should be 
used on both hotbeds and cold frames when there is danger of severe 
freezing. 

Cloth Covers. A very cheap and also satisfactory covering may 
be made of cloth instead of glass, and while not entirely dependable 
for winter work in northern localities, will meet every requirement 
in many parts of the South. The boxes or beds are made in the 
ordinary way, but no glass being used the expensive sash are not 
required. The corners are halved together and nailed with wire lath 
or shingle nails and clinched. For the center brace or support take a 
piece same width as the sides and long enough to fit snugly between 
the side pieces, place in the center and toe-nail the ends to the side 
pieces. The frames are covered with medium or heavyweight sheet- 
ing stretched tightly over frame and tacked to outside edges. After 
this is done paint the cloth with two or three coats of the following 
mixture: Two thoroughly beaten eggs to a pint of raw linseed oil. 
When painting keep the mixture well stirred, and allow one coat to 
dry before applying another. Three, or even four coats of the paint 
are better than less, and frames thus covered will stand almost any 
amount of rain, and the transmission of heat will be found ample for 
ordinary weather. These frames being very light, should be fastened 
to the bed, by means of screw-eye and hook at each end. They can, 
of course, be made any length, to fit any width of bed, but should be 
three feet in width, as yard-wide sheeting will stretch sufficiently to 
lap over the edges of the frame. These frames will repay many 
times over their cost if used for no other purpose than hardening off 
plants; and for growing lettuce and cabbage plants they are far and 
away superior to glass, as the heat is less fierce. Some writers on the 
subject are prone to belittle the usefulness of the cloth-covered sash, 
evidently forgetting that many cannot afford the outlay necessary for 
the glass, to say nothing of the greenhouse. Could we all afford 
greenhouses there would be little need for hotbeds of any kind; since 
we cannot all afford the greenhouse, nor yet the glass-filled sash, it is 
fortunate that the cloth covers are available, and ordinarily, will take 
the place of the glass very nicely. The hot-beds should, if possible, 
face the south, and be sheltered on the north and west by buildings 
or other protection. 

WHERE TO LOCATE THEM. 

For location we want a warm all-day sun exposure, sheltered on 
the north and west. So if possible, select the south side of buildings 
or tight, high board fence. The west must also have like protection; 
for hot beds are a poor investment, or at least, are never at their best 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 7 

except under ideal conditions. "Labor much, expect much," is the 
only gateway out to success in gardening. Locate the beds with 
length east and west, with slope of sash to the south, so that to have 
the full benefit of the sun. 

FILLING THE BED. 

The manure (preferably horse,) should be mixed with about its own 
bulk of straw or forest leaves, well shaken up and stored under cover 
to prevent leaching. Occasional forking over will prevent heating, 
which is to be avoided, and also mixes the whole body evenly, which 
is essentia] for best results. 

A few days before filling the bed, pile the manure up, and tramp it 
well together, to induce heating, which may be told by the escaping 
steam. If the weather is cold, covering the heap with straw or corn- 
stalks will hasten the heating process. Do not let it burn or firefang, 
but when it is well warmed through, fill it into the bed and tramp it 
solid. Put on the sash or covers and let it remain until the heat is 
well started again. Now pitch it over and tramp it well down, giving 
it the same slope on top as the sash. Cover up and let it remain until 
the heat is well up, then put on four to five inches of good garden 
soil. It will require no further care until ready for sowing, except to 
raise the sash occasionally to allow the rank heat to pass off. It is all 
the better to remain thus for several days, as it minimizes the danger 
of burning by the first rank heat. Then, too, many wild seeds will 
have time to germinate which will be destroyed by raking over the 
bed previous to sowing. Wet the bed well and rake thoroughly before 
sowing. With these precautions, there will be little danger of over- 
heat on the start, and if well aired on sunny days good results are 
pretty sure to follow. 

HOW DEEP TO FILL. 

I am well aware that many successful growers use only the ordinary 
12-inch box. No excavating is done, and no slope is provided other 
than is obtained by tilting one side of the box. With four inches 
space between glass and soil which we must have, this allows but 
eight inches for soil and manure on the lower side with ten to twelve 
inches on the higher side. I do not like the practice as there is not a 
sufficient body of manure to insure bottom heat for long service. I 
prefer 12 inches of manure to any less, and never complain if I have 
more, for then I am sure of plenty of heat as long as required. Allow 
four inches for the plants, four, and better five, inches for the soil, 
then excavate sufficiently for a good body of manure and you will not 
regret the extra labor. Before filling, the beds must be banked out- 
side with manure, well tramped down from the ground clear to the 
top. 

WHEN TO START THE BEDS. 

If it is desired to grow lettuce and radishes for very early use, start 
the beds any time in late January or early February. This of course, 
means plenty of manure outside and in, with sufficient covering for 
the sash. Early celery and onion seed should go in from February 
15th to March 1st. Early cabbage and lettuce for transplanting to 
open ground will stand pretty cool weather and some frost if well 



8 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 

hardened off before going out. They will require five to six weeks in 
the hotbed and cold frame. Tomatoes will require seven to eight 
weeks. Egg and pepper plants grow slowly at first and are also very 
tender. They will require eight to ten weeks, and ought not to be 
got out until the ground and weather are thoroughly warm. 

There are no hard and fast rules applicable to transplanting to the 
open ground. It general, very little is gained by planting out until 
weather conditions are such that the plants will push ahead without 
check. However, I very much like to get the vegetables as early as 
possible, and while not advising others to do likewise, I sometimes 
take long chances. At one time, I planted sweet corn and potatoes 
on April 22. I was advised by some of my neighbors not to do it. 
But I figured that if Jack Frost kept hisdistanee I would "get there" 
ahead of my neighbors. If he did upset my plans then I would not 
be out very much. I pulled through without getting scorched, and 
the sweet corn and potatoes were in good demand at my own prices. 
There is always the element of uncertainty as to the planting time, 
and spite of all we sometimes get left. There is, however, an 
average date for every locality when it is ordinarily safe to trust the 
weather and plant the crops. There is also a basis of reckoning 
which, though not entirely dependable, is often quite helpful. For 
instance, we would say that in the locality of Detroit it was usually 
safe to plant corn from May 5 to 15, and to transplant tomatoes from 
the latter date on. Then the time for other localities would vary 
from six to eight days earlier or later for every degree of latitude 
south or north from that location. This is a generally, though not 
entirely safe rule. 

MANAGEMENT OF THE HOT BEDS. 

Very few explicit directions can be given upon this subject as, for 
small gardens, so many different varieties have to occupy the same 
hot bed. In general it may be said, however, that there will be very 
little danger of too much heat at first, provided the directions for 
filling have been carefully studied and followed. After that, the heat 
must be controlled by frequently airing the bed. This should be done 
on all sunshiny days, and the amount of airing will, of course, depend 
entirely upon the heat of the bed and the outside temperature. In 
bright sunshine it will rarely be too cold to ventilate to some extent, 
and it is easily done by raising the covers more or less as necessity 
demands. The covers or sash should always be opened on the side 
opposite to the wind. 

MOISTURE. 

The bed should be well moistened before sowing the seed, so it will 
not require further wetting until the plants are up. Sufficient water 
to keep up the moisture supply must be given and the soil should be 
stirred to prevent crusting. Experience and observation are our 
safest guides, and by them we may learn more than volumes of theory 
could teach us. 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



CHAPTER III. 

ALL season's garden. 

A study of the diagram on page 14 will give in brief a plan for 
the farm, suburban or village garden, that with modifications as cir- 
cumstances may require, will furnish a varied and abundant supply of 
vegetables the whole year around. With the diagram and seed cata- 
logues before you, select as noted, or vary as desired, the seeds for 
one-fourth acre. Have the hotbeds as previously described, started 
in good time, and cold frames ready for use. Do not get alarmed at 
the heavy task assigned, as a record of labor in a three-fourths acre 
garden showed but a few days of time outside the marketing. In this 
arrangement three-fourths of the ground can be cultivated by horse- 
power if desired. Numerous varieties are named, but are given with 
the view of keeping up a constant supply from spring until winter 
when, with a few feet of cellar space or a cheaply constructed shed, 
the supply of forced vegetables can go on uninterruptedly until they 
are again grown in the open ground. A few days' labor with a little 
careful thought will make it by far the most valuable quarter acre on 
the farm, and the suburban or village home with less ground will 
find it proportionately profitable. 

The diagram as shown represents the entire garden occupied by 
first plantings, both permanent beds, and crops to be followed by suc- 
cessions. Then referring to germination and maturity tables, it will 
be in no way difficult to keep the successions so that very little ground 
will go to waste. Tomatoes, early cabbage, lettuce, egg plant and 
pepper should be started in the hotbed. The seed list and diagram are 
very comprehensive, and may at first stagger some of our good read- 
ers, but when the permanent beds, as asparagus, rhubarb, etc., are 
fully established, fresh vegetables will be at hand 365 days in the year. 
It will require time to grow the rhubarb and asparagus to forcing age, 
but the chicory, celery, sea kale, etc., can be forced the first winter. 
Now as the pickling and canning season is well provided for, it will 
pay to study the scheme well before casting it aside. However, it can 
be simplified at pleasure by eliminating undesirable sorts, but, of 
course, at the expense of a continuous supply and variety. 

LIST OF SEEDS AND PLANTS. 

Asparagus roots. Palmetto or Argentine 25 

Asparagus seed 2 ounces 

Pole Lima beans Yz pint 

Bush Limas yi. pint 

Kidney beans 1 pint 

Green pod beans 1 quart 

Golden wax beans 1 quart 

Cabbage, early and late, each 1 packet 

Cauliflower 1 packet 



10 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 

Carrot, early and late, each 1 ounce 

Celery 2 packets 

Celeriac 1 packet 

Cucumbers, early and late, each 1 packet 

Corn, early 1 pint 

Corn medium 1 pint 

Corn, late 1 quart 

Endive 1 ounce 

Eggplant 1 ounce 

Kohlrabi 1 ounce 

Lettuce 2 packets 

Muskmelon 1 packet 

Watermelon 1 packet 

Prizetaker onion % pound 

Onion sets 1 quart 

Pickling onion seed 1 ounce 

Beets, early and late, each 2 ounces 

Cress 1 ounce 

Chicory 1 ounce 

Dill 1 packet 

Lavender 1 packet 

Sage 1 packet 

Sea Kale 1 ounce 

Parsley 1 ounce 

Parsnip K pound 

Pepper 1 packet 

Peas, extra early, medium, late, each 2 quarts 

Radish 1 ounce 

Radish, Winter 1 ounce 

Rhubarb roots 25 

Spinach X pound 

Salsify 2 ounces 

Mustard 2 ounces 

Squash, early 1 ounce 

Squash, Winter 1 ounce 

Tomatoes, early and late, each, 1 packet 

Turnip 2 ounces 

Potatoes X to >4 bushel 

Strawberry plants 125 

Raspberry plants, red 75 

Black raspberry plants 50 

Pie Pumpkin 1 ounce 

PERIOD OF GERMINATION. 

There are no ironclad rules as to the exact time required for the 
germination of seeds as so many conditions enter into the problem. 
Some general calculations, however, may be made and are helpful in 
the planning and management of the garden. The following table 
shows the average time of germination from planting, of the more 
common seeds: 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 11 

Days. Days. 

Beans 5 to 10 Lettuce 6 to 8 

Beets 7 to 10 Onions 7 to 10 

Cabbage 5 to 10 Parsnips 10 to 20 

Carrot 12 to 20 Peas 6 to 10 

Cauliflower 5 to 10 Pepper 10 to 14 

Celery 10 to 20 Radish 3 to 6 

Corn 5 to 8 Salsify 7 to 12 

Cucumber. . .' 6 to 10 Tomato 6 to 12 

Endive 5 to 10 Turnip 4 to 8 

This table presupposes ordinarily fair conditions, and will vary con- 
siderably under the extremes of very poor to ideal surroundings. The 
same is also true as to the average time of maturing. For illustra- 
tion, an early variety of sweet corn planted under just the right con- 
ditions might mature in 65 days. The same variety planted a month 
earlier with ground and weather barely warm enough to sustain life 
might require 70 to 80 days. This means that many of the so-called 
extra early varieties are not such under all conditions. The results of 
one season may be entirely overturned by the varied conditions of the 
following season; and thus our air castles get moved from their 
foundations. 

The table below will be helpful in laying out the garden and plant- 
ing, so that the crops of like periods of growth may be planted 
together, if desired, and thus make the succession of crops more 
convenient. 

MATURITY TABLE. 

Days. Days. 

Beets 40 to 60 Egg Plant 150 to 175 

Cabbage 90 to 115 Muskmelon 125 to 150 

Carrot 90 to 110 Onions 130 to 150 

Celery 150 to 160 Parsnips , ...90 to 120 

Corn (sweet) 65 to 80 Peas 40 to 75 

Cucumber 55 to 75 Peppers 140 to 160 

Lettuce 65 to 75 Radish 20 to 30 

Watermelon 125 to 150 Spinach 60 to 80 

Squash (winter) 120 to 150 Squash (summer) 90 to 100 

Tomatoes 110 to 120 Turnips 60 to 75 

The above table of course, refers generally, to the time from plant- 
ing to tirrie of full maturity, but is subject to much change in actual 
work. 

Garden Tools. It will pay many times to invest in a few good 
tools, and a list of the much needed ones will show what each reader 
lacks, so that they may be supplied and be ready for use. Hoe, 
garden rake, fork (four tine), shovel, spade, wheelbarrow, garden line, 
dibber, seed drill, double wheel hoe with attachments and weeder. 
Any smooth stick 12 or 15 inches in length, nicely rounded at one end 
to prevent bruising the hand, and well sharpened at the other, will 
make a good dibber. An old spade or shovel handle sawed the same 
length will be far better. A carpenter's chalk line (heavy) or tarred 
matting twine with two small stakes will make this outfit complete. 



12 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 

Many of the seedsmen advertise a very cheap and convenient hand- 
drill costing about $1.25. If a more expensive one cannot be afforded, 
these will be found very satisfactory. Drilling seed by hand is slow 
and tedious work, and some sort of a drill should be at hand. There 
are many very excellent wheel hoes manufactured, all, so far as I know, 
do good work, only do not bother with a single wheel. The double 
hoe costs but little more and in actual practice is worth many times 
more. Personally, I use the Planet Jr., with plow, rake, cultivator 
and hoe attachments, also a weeder of my own make. With these 
attachments, I have never seen any tool capable of so many kinds of 
work, and for a garden of these dimensions, I would give very little 
for the use of a horse after the ground is once fitted. The weeder is 
simply a strip of board one inch by four, and three feet long. 

Draw a line three-quarters of an inch in from each edge, and drive 
a row of spikes (40-penny wire,) along one line four inches apart. 
Drive the spikes along the other line so that they will stand midway 
between the spikes of the first line. In the single line they stand four 
inches apart, but by the double line they run only two inches distant. 
Bolt this either squarely, or at an angle to the under side of the 
wheel hoe and you have a weeder that is death to the weeds, and a 
sure preventive of damage from ordinary drought. It is too wide to 
push easily as we work the other attachments, but works easily when 
pulled. It may be weighted or not as desired, and may be used to 
run over the surface either before or after the plants are up. If 
worked in time and often enough, very little hand weeding is neces- 
sary in any kind of vegetables, and this saving of labor is a great 
item. Use it from before the seeds are sown until the size of plants 
prevents further use. 

Plant Protectors. An indispensable adjunct to growing first early 
vegetables is a supply of plant protectors. Heavy tarred building 
paper, everything considered, is the most desirable material. It is 
sold here at seventy-five cents per roll, and the protectors can be 
made, labor included, for from one and one-half to three cents apiece. 
Cut the material lengthwise or crosswise of the breadth, as will cause 
least waste, any length or diameter desired. Bend the strips round 
with one-inch lap; with a sharp knife make an incision through both 
ends and fasten with brass paper fastenings. Covers of the same 
material are made by cutting into squares a little larger than the 
diameter of the protector. They are very useful in windy weather to 
prevent the plants from whipping, and plants thus protected in cold 
and stormy weather may with safety be set ten days or two weeks 
earlier than otherwise. When desired for use, the covers may be held 
in place by slightly weighting with earth. They will many times re- 
pay their cost each year, and low ones (say four or five inches high,) 
left permanently around the Hubbard squash hills are almost a 
guarantee against the black squash bugs. 

Fitting the Ground. In a general way, we talked in chapter one 
of various soil textures and their management. But the particular 
method of fitting any soil, ready for the seed, was purposely left until 
now, for convenience of the reader, and that fitting the soil and plant- 
ing might follow each other in their regular order. 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 13 

If heavy clay soil, turn under deeply as much coarse manure as 
possible. This in general will be good treatment for all soils for the 
first year, but especially for heavy clay, or clay loam, only do not for- 
get a generous top-dressing of fine manure. Air-slaked lime, 500 to 
750 pounds to the quarter acre, will prove very valuable in correcting 
soil acidity, which is far too often the condition. It will loosen 
the hard soils, and bind the thin light sands, and in either case it will 
not be amiss. Ashes, leached or unleached will do the same work, 
so if possible to obtain, use the lime or ashes, as a top-dressing on the 
furrows, and work thoroughly into the soil. Plow the ground as early 
as possible, but if heavy soil, not until the soil at the bottom of fur- 
row will crumble to some extent when worked in the hand (not like 
putty,) else it will bake. Lighter soils can be plowed if quite wet, 
but let it be done as early as possible ; then use the harrow at every 
opportunity until planting time. Plow lengthwise, by back furrow- 
ing from the center, thus avoiding dead furrows. After lime or ashes 
have been thoroughly worked in, then spread on the fine manure and 
harrow again, and when pretty sure that you have it well fitted, then 
keep right on fitting until ready to plant. 






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Tomatoes 


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Water Melon 
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Note 



( Figures 
•^ feet. 
( inche 



Figures following the names of varieties indicate length of drill in 
Figures at top of diagram indicate distance between rows, in 
inches. 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN IS 



CHAPTER IV. 

PLANTING THE GARDEN. 

The directions for planting the all-season's garden presuppose that 
the hotbeds are already in operation, and that the ground has been 
well manured and thoroughly fitted. I fear, however, that fitting has 
been slighted. If heavy clay soil and lumpy, those lumps ought in 
some way to be ground to powder. You can do this with the pul- 
verizer, disk harrow or roller, but lacking these, make a float. Take 
three two-inch plank, 1x6 feet; in one plank bore a half-inch hole one 
foot from each end, and two inches in from one edge for chain and 
devices. Use this for the front plank, and lap the second plank two 
inches on to the back edge of the first one, and bolt or spike on firmly. 
Lap the third on to the second in same way as the first, like the clap- 
boards on a house. Load with stone, bags of sand, or get on and ride. 
It will pulverize the lumps and be equally useful for firming light 
sandy soil, which is quite as important. After this the permanent 
beds are in order. 

ASPARAGUS. 

A few square feet of space with intensive culture, when in full 
bearing, will supply a family of several; so do not be cheated out of 
the bed for seeming lack of space. Lay out the ground at distances 
which best suit personal requirements and plow or spade out trenches 
from si.x to ten inches in depth. Wherever the plants are set, a slight 
mound of earth should be left in bottom of trench. Naturally the 
roots grow in the form of an umbrella, and when setting out the 
plants the crowns should rest in centre of mound with the rootlets 
spreading out naturally around the mound. Cover with fine soil and 
firm sufificiently to hold the roots securely in place and the balance of 
filling in may be done with plow or any convenient way to do it 
rapidly. The same general directions will apply at whatever distance 
the plants are set, but if the space is narrowed down to a small bed, 
it is usually best to excavate the entire bed, and after setting the 
plants in position, fill in the soil the same as was done in the trenches. 
Do not set old plants. One year old, while a little longer in coming 
into full bearing, will give best results in the end. 

Remember that the asparagus beds properly set and cared for, 
should last fifteen to twenty years, so the most careful preparation at 
the beginning will amply pay in the end. Do not expose the roots to 
the sun or drying wind before, or at time of setting. Set in freshly 
made trenches and be sure the soil is well moistened. Keep the 
ground clean by frequent cultivation and apply a liberal top dressing 
of stable manure. No cutting should be done next year, but the year 
following considerable may be obtained, and the bed should be in full 
bearing the succeeding year. For forcing purposes sow the seed one 
inch deep in the drill and follow cultural directions as above. When 
the plants are up and well established, thin to one foot apart. With 
intensive culture and fertilizing, the roots should be ready for forcing 



16 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 

two years from the following winter, but would, of course, be better the 
third season. The same general directions as for for forcing rhubarb 
will also hold good for asparagus. Sowing should be made each year 
to keep up a root supply. 

HERBS. 

Sage and lavender are, of course, perennial, i. e., they live from 
year to year, and are grown for the leaves. Sage is used medicinally 
and for seasoning; lavender is principally grown for the distilled 
water in a commercial way, but for home use the dried flowers are 
used in the linen chests or drawers. The sage leaves and tender 
stalks should be cut just as the blooming season begins, and quickly 
dried in the shade. Sow seed early and keep clean of weeds. The 
lavender will require some thinning, but the sage should be thinned 
to sixteen inches in the row. It is well to divide the old sage roots in 
spring. Dill requires the same general treatment, but need not be 
thinned much, and the stalks should be cut before ripe enough to 
shell, and tied in small bundles to cure. Parsley should go into the 
permanent beds. The seeds are sown the same as others, but being 
very slow to germinate, should be sown as early as possible. When 
plants are well up thin to twelve or fourteen inches in the row, and 
when three inches high shear off the tops, which gives a new and 
stronger growth. Whenever the tops turn brown or discolored, shear 
off, and the next growth will be better. Any other herbs may be 
substituted for, or added to, this list if desired. The same general 
rules of culture apply to all, only remembering that rich soil and good 
culture are passports to success. 

RHUBARB. 

Doubtless most of our readers have this vegetable growing in their 
gardens and are now enjoying the many wholesome and delicious 
dishes prepared from it. Many, however, are not aware that the 
most beautiful crop of it can be grown in the dark, and during the 
coldest weather of winter. It is so easily grown that every family 
may have a daily supply from January to May, at almost no cost. 
Do not allow the seed stalks to grow at any time, but break them out 
as soon as they appear. When the leaf stalks begin to grow tough 
and stringy, begin to cultivate the plants and work a liberal supply of 
manure into the soil close around them. Do not break off the old 
leaf stalks, but allow them to wither away at will; but keep the weeds 
and grass out and work thoroughly and manure liberally until late in 
the fall. 

By dark forcing we mean growing the rhubarb in the dark. It is 
grown in the house or root cellar, or cellars constructed purposely 
for the work. The forcing cellar can be made very cheaply; the only 
requirements being that it must keep out the frost and light. It re- 
quires some artificial heat, forty-five or fifty degrees at least, but it 
may be heated to eighty-five or ninety degrees and do no harm. The 
heat may be furnished very cheaply by means of a stove, or some- 
times kerosene lamps are used. The roots must be strong and vig- 
orous, two or three years old and upward. They are dug out of the 
ground and allowed to freeze solidly before putting them into the eel- 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 17 

lar. They are taken up with as much soil adhering to their roots as 
possible, and are set snugly together on the cellar bottom. The 
spaces between the roots are filled in with loose soil. As soon as the 
roots are thawed out, the stalks begin to grow, and the rhubarb is 
ready for picking in three to four weeks — if the heat has been kept 
up to seventy degrees or higher. The lower temperature usually 
gives a larger yield, but of course requires more time. The ordinary 
kinds such as we grow out of doors are used for forcing. Any of the 
varieties will answer, but Victoria and Linnaeus are best. It is grown 
from December IS or a little later until April, and is very profitable. 
As all the work is done during the winter months it bridges over a 
period of inactivity and brings cash returns at a time of year when 
most needed. 

RASPBERRIES. 

Nothing but the very best both as to varieties and vigor is good 
enough, and they should be had at whatever cost. Set them out care- 
fully do not throw or stick them into the ground. Begin cultivating as 
soon as set out, and never allow them to check in growth, for want of 
good care or liberal fertilizing. When two to ZY-z feet high pinch 
back the tops to allow lateral shoots to develop. Light catch crops 
may be planted in the rows the first season, as beans or some small- 
growing variety of corn. Do not be satisfied with half-hearted work 
or poor stock, as results will be disappointing. 

STRAWBERRIES. 

For the strawberry bed I would select the varieties as to season, 
early, medium and late, with medium predominating as to number of 
plants for convenience in canning. Get the best plants that money 
can buy ; I mean get the best varieties, and those bred up by special- 
ists in that line; you will have fewer runners to fight and get larger 
crops of better berries. If the plants are thoroughbred and the ground 
is rich as it should be, set the plants 30 inches apart by 18 inches in 
the row, and allow no runners to grow at any time. This, of course, 
leaves them in hills so that thorough culture can be given at all times. 
If set 36 inches apart by 20 inches in the row, they can be allowed to 
set runners to some extent in the rows. Either way will doubtless give 
better results than growing in matted rows. When setting the plants, 
do not allow the sun to shine on the roots at all. Moisten the roots 
well (do not soak them), a few at a time, and leave a small mound of 
earth in the row where the plant is to be set. With the crown rest- 
ing fairly on the mound, allow the roots to fall and spread naturally 
over the mound, and cover with fine earth at once. Cultivate im- 
mediately after setting, as the ground will be more or less tramped 
down, and much moisture will be lost, which cultivating would save. 
This will be found excellent practice in all the garden work, cultivate 
and cultivate. Set the plants in freshly worked soil, and set them, 
do not stick them. With the best of plants properly set and properly 
cared for you will grow three to four good crops without renewing. 



18 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



BEANS. 



The wax and stringless green pod varieties, for best results, should 
be drilled or dropped four to six inches in rt\e,.row; they are very ten- 
der, and should not be planted until all reason^le' danger from frost is 
passed; but after that they may be planted at intervals of two weeks 
or a little more, for succession. As soon as the plants are well out of 
the ground apply the nitrate of soda, same as for early cabbage. It 
should be applied every few days, especially if there are any traces 
of rust. The same treatment as to nitrate of soda (or saltpeter if 
more convenient) should be followed with the Lima beans. These, 
both bush and pole varieties, especially in the North, should be started 
in pans or boxes of soil, either in the hotbeds or sunny windows. 
They may be started two to three weeks earlier than they could, with 
safety, be planted in the open ground. Plant one inch deep, making 
sure that the eye is down, one in a place, and far enough apart that 
they may readily be taken up without disturbing the roots. In tak- 
ing up, be sure that the soil is sufficiently moist to adhere well to 
them. It is best to take plenty of soil with the plants and set in holes 
previously dug. With care in handling, the plants may be reset with 
entire safety, and the season of maturity very much hastened. The 
bush Limas should be set two feet apart in the rows, as with good soil 
and culture they will spread a good deal. If the pole varieties are to 
be trained to a single pole, they should be set previous to transplant- 
ing the beans. Set three or four plants around each pole on a slightly 
raised mound of earth. Poles seven feet above the ground are suf- 
ficiently high, and when the vines reach the top they should be tied 
there and pinched back. The trellis is very desirable, but I have 
very little faith in corn or sunflowers planted in to take the place of 
poles or trellis. When poles are used, the vines must be trained and 
tied occasionally to the poles, and the most convenient way is to wind 
the string or cord used for tying, around the left wrist. This allows 
free use of both hands for the work, and saves much trouble by avoid- 
ing tangling the cord. Carefully avoid working among the vines in 
any way while they are wet. The pole varieties should be set at least 
three feet between rows, but two feet in the rows will answer for the 
garden. 



CABBAGE. 



If the early cabbage was started in the hotbed, the plants should be 
picked out and set farther apart, so as not to crowd too closely. This 
should be done as soon as the plants begin to crowd in the row. They 
will, of course, have to be hardened off in the cold frames or given all 
the open growth possible in the hotbed. Nitrate of soda, an ounce to 
the gallon of water, sprayed or sprinkled upon the plants occasionally 
will be of great benefit. They can be removed to the open ground 
quite early, as they will stand frost to some extent. When the leaves 
are two inches in width clip them off and the plants will grow all the 
more stocky and strong. Clipping back at the time of transplanting, 
will materially aid the plants. The late cabbage and cauliflower seed 
should be sown thirty-five to forty days previous to the time of trans- 
planting, which in this locality would be late in June or early in July. 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 19 

The culture is the same for both, except that when the cauliflower 
heads begin to form they should be sheltered from the hot sun's rays by 
tying the outer leaves up over the heads. It is well not to transplant 
too early, as they head better in the cooler days and nights of Au- 
tumn. They should be cut for use while the "curd" or head is still 
firm and solid, and before they begin to divide into branches. 

CELERY. 

As the seed is very slow to germinate it should be sown quite early 
in the shallow boxes or thoroughly prepared soil in the seedbed, as in- 
dicated in former diagram. The soil should be kept moist, almost 
wet. Sow in drills, covering very lightly, and keep the soil well 
stirred and free from weeds. When about two inches high the rows 
may be thinned by transplanting to three inches apart and when three 
or four inches high clip back the tops to give more growth to the 
roots. Transplant to permanent rows from middle of June to the 
first part of July, and clip back both roots and tops from one-fourth 
to one-third. If soil blanching is depended upon, the plants should 
be set not less than four feet apart by six inches in the row. If 
blanched with boards, thirty inches apart will be sufficient. Nitrate 
of soda, liquid cow or hen manure will be very beneficial to the crop, 
and plenty of moisture is also equally essential. Celeriac seed will 
be sown the same time as celery and the culture will be the same. 
The root, however, is the edible part, and of course no hilling up or 
"handling" is done. Roots two inches in diameter are large enough 
for use, and the winter supply may be packed in sand in the cellar, or 
may be pitted the same as beets. 

CORN. 

The chief difficulty with planting sweet corn very early is the 
danger of rotting before germination takes place. With this difficulty 
eliminated, many days' time will be gained in maturing the crop. 
Take shallow pans or a dripping pan (pie tins will answer) and put a 
half inch of sand in the bottom; spread a thin cloth over this, and 
sprinkle the corn on thinly. Place another covering of cloth on and 
cover with more sand; one-fourth inch will be sufficient. Keep it 
moist and moderately warm by placing it near a stove or in the warm- 
ing oven. If kept moist and warm, the corn will sprout in a few 
days, and may be planted even if the weather and soil are still quite 
cool. Cover shallow, however, that it may get all possible benefit 
from the sun. The medium and late varieties will not require this 
treatment, as they need not be planted until danger of cold weather 
and frost is past. 

Planting Sweet Corn. As cultivation in both directions is usually 
impracticable in small areas, the sweet corn will stand considerable 
crowding. With good soil hills twenty inches apart in the rows will 
produce a good crop. The first early varieties are usually small 
stalks, and will even stand one good plant every six inches. A close 
and continued succession is always desirable, and having a really good 
variety of first early, it is often advisable to make a second planting 
a week to ten days after the first, and especially so if the first plant- 
ing was sprouted. This will certainly carry the first early well over 



20 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 

to theVseason of medium sorts. Personal experience has pretty 
thoroughly weaned me from Early Cory and all its strains, and I have 
found none more hardy and free from smut than Sheffield Sugar. 

EGG PLANT. 

This is allied to both the potato and tomato family, but is far less 
hardy than either. It requires very warm rich soil and under these 
conditions grows very rapidly. Four weeks previous to setting in the 
open ground is time enough to sow the seed in hot bed, and June first, is 
soon enough to plant in open ground in northern localities. Its insect 
enemy is the potato beetle which must be either hand-picked or 
poisoned. It is also subject to rot which may be prevented by spray- 
ing with Bordeaux mixture. Too early planting will sometimes cause 
mildew, and the preventive is later setting. The plants should be set 
about 3x4 feet in the rows. 

ENDIVE. 

The late sown is highly prized in many localities as a winter salad. 
The seed may be sown in drills as late as July, and when plants are 
well established should be thinned to ten or twelve inches in the row. 
Clean culture is all that is necessary until late fall, or when wanted 
for use; the outer leaves are drawn up and tied over the center of the 
plant, when they will blanch nicely in a few days' time. The Green 
Curled is a hardy and desirable variety, and blanches to a clear white. 

EARLY PEAS. 

'■ For the first early peas, sow only smooth varieties, and cover one 
inch deep. They should be sown as soon as the soil will work nicely. 
For this reason I would discard the wrinkled varieties, as they are 
liable to rot when sown too early. Do not cover deeply ; they will 
stand lots of cold after they are once up, but any variety will rot if 
covered too deep while the soil is cold. This for the first early vari- 
eties only, culture for medium and late will follow later. 

LATER PEAS. 

Both medium and late, for best results, should be planted deeply, 
but not until the soil is warm enough to preclude danger from rotting. 
The wrinkled varieties will now be in order, and should be used, as 
the flavor and bearing qualities are much superior to the earlier, 
smooth sorts. Open the trenches three to four inches deep, with the 
plows on the wheel hoe, same as for potatoes. Sow the seed thickly, 
enough to insure a good stand (one quart to the 100 feet of drill is 
not too much,) and cover not to exceed one inch. When the peas are 
up, fill in with soil as rapidly as the growth of vines will permit, and 
when the trenches are fully filled, the roots will have sufficient depth 
to withstand the hot sun and drought of the advancing season to a 
much later period than if planted shallow as for very early crops. 

EARLY TOMATOES. 

With the hotbed and plant protectors, the problem of early toma- 
toes is solved. Sow early in the hotbed and transplant when the 
second leaves appear into rows two or three inches apart ; they will 
find room to grow without crowding for some time to come. When 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 21 

grown sufficiently to begin to crowd transplant into pots. With 
broken bits of pot placed in the pots for drainage, fill them one-third 
full of soil; as the plant is placed in the pot add soil enough to hold 
the plant in place and firm down well around the roots, and fill up 
with loose soil. Do not pack or firm the soil about the stems. Place 
the pots in a tub partially filled with water which has been exposed to 
the sun, and when thoroughly soaked from the bottom upward place 
in the cold frame. With frequent watering and uncovering on warm 
days they will make the stem and root growth so essential to early 
fruiting. When ready for the open ground, dig holes large and deep 
enough to hold the entire contents of the pots. Soak the pots thor- 
oughly and jar out; if carefully done the roots, now grown through the 
entire mass, will hold intact. Place in the hole and fill up with loose 
soil. Set out in this way, the work may be done under the hottest sun, 
and plants will never wilt or change color. They will receive no check, 
and with the plant protectors for cold days or cold storms they may 
be safely transplanted two weeks earlier than they otherwise could. 

KOHL RABI. 

The seed may be sown up to the middle of June, or even later, in 
drills, the same as turnips. They will be found a valuable acquisition 
to the table supply, and any surplus above home or market use, may 
be fed to stock with good results. They are cooked the same as tur- 
nips, and considered by many superior to that vegetable, and as a 
drought-resister are more hardy. 

ONIONS. 

The sets for early table onions should be planted two or three 
inches apart in the rows. If they are in bunches, pick them apart, 
and the convenient way of planting is to make a hole with the finger, 
dropping the set in and covering. The Prizetaker requires early 
sowing and any amount of fertilizer as ashes, hen manure, etc. The 
same is true for the pickling onions also. The rows should be very 
straight, and seed should be covered one and one-half inches; cultiva- 
tion should be begun as soon as possible after sowing. The pickling 
onions should be left to stand quite thickly in the row to avoid too 
large size; but the Prizetaker when well established, should be thinned 
to four inches. 

POTATOES. 

If you are ambitious to be ahead of your neighbors in early pota- 
toes, and the spring should prove cold and backward, start your pota- 
toes in sand. Use broad shallow boxes not to exceed three inches in 
depth, with an inch of sand in the bottom. Cut potatoes, two eyes 
to the piece or more if you desire; put them into a pail or other deep 
vessel and cover them with a generous sprinkling of sulphur. As you 
pick the pieces out one by one, the sulphur will rattle down through 
the mass and pretty thoroughly cover them. Set them eyes up, close- 
ly together in the sand, and when the layer is complete sprinkle on 
sufficient sand nearly to cover them. Moisten well and set in a 
partially darkened room with a temperature of forty-five or fifty de- 
grees, and leave them to grow until ready for planting. When ready 
to plant, put the plows on to the wheel hoe, set them closely together 



22 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 

and open the trenches. Drop the seed pieces fifteen inches apart, be- 
ing very careful not to break off the sprouts in handling. Now re- 
verse the plows with moldboards turning in and set widely apart; run 
the machine astride the rows, which will throw the soil back into the 
furrow, and the potatoes will be covered as rapidly as one cares to 
walk. They will be up in from three days to a week, owing to length 
of sprouts when planted, and they will stand head and shoulders above 
those planted in the old way from start to finish. The sulphur is, to 
some extent, a preventive of scab, and it also preserves the seed 
pieces much longer, which I think is a decided advantage. 

PEPPERS. 

These are slow growing plants and should be started in the hotbed 
equally as early as tomatoes. They are also tender and should not go 
into the open ground until all danger of freezing is past. Plant in 
rows two feet apart by eighteen inches in the row, and give thorough 
cultivation. 

PARSNIPS AND SALSIFY. 

Parsnips and salsify will require the same culture except that par- 
snip seed should be covered quite shallow and salsify deeply. Sow 
during the month of May and thin to three inches. Both are entirely 
hardy, and may remain in the ground during the winter. The winter 
supply may be dug in the fall and packed in sand in the cellar, or 
stored in pits. Chicory requires the same culture as parsnips, but is 
used only for forcing in winter for the tops. Beets and carrots for the 
winter supply should be sown according to locality from June 10 to 
July 1, and in some localities even a little later, and the culture is 
essentially the same as for parsnips, etc. With all the above root 
crops avoid the use of green or fresh manure, as it almost invariably 
causes ill-shaped roots. The half-long carrots and turnip-shaped 
varieties of beets will be most desirable for table use. 

Swiss Chard is very similar to the beet except that the tops alone 
are the edible portion. The cultivation is the same, but the seed 
should be sown early in May. The large ribs forming the leafstalk 
are cooked and served the same as asparagus, and the leaves are used 
for greens and considered by many superior to all others. They 
should be thinned to twelve or fifteen inches in the row, and the tops 
after attaining suitable size are broken out at any time. Late in fall 
the roots may be taken up for forcing same as rhubarb. The seed bed 
indicated in diagam will be available for all varieties of plants up to 
the time for transplanting the late cabbage and cauliflower. 

Spinach will be the chief reliance for greens until the early beets 
are ready for use. The soil must be very rich for best results, and 
thinning for use may begin when the largest leaves are two inches 
wide. One or two sowings may be made for succession, but it will 
not pay to carry it into the hot weather, as it becomes tough and 
stringy then. For winter and early spring use, sow according to 
locality, from September 1 to 30. When cold weather comes it should 
be covered with coarse litter to hold the snow. Early radishes will, 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 23 

under favorable circumstances, mature very quickly, and frequent 
sowings should be made, as when overgrown they become worthless. 
They are very easy of culture and are always welcome in the early 
season. The winter varieties should be sown early in the summer, 
and may be used during the fall. The winter supply may be stored 
in sand or pitted the same as potatoes. 

SALADS. 

Nearly all the salads require essentially the same cultivation and 
should be sown as early as the conditions of soil and weather will per- 
mit. As the diagram on page 14 shows everything in drills or rows 
it is taken for granted that these terms are understood all the time, 
and nothing is mentioned of broadcasting. Lettuce should not be 
covered to exceed half an inch, and the plants may be picked out for 
transplanting at any time after they are well established. As soon as 
large enough the plants may also be used for salad, but when thinning 
out either for transplanting or salad, leave good vigorous plants stand- 
ing four inches apart in the rows. Later on, as they begin to crowd 
in the rows, every alternate plant may be taken out and the others 
left to head up. Liquid cow manure will hasten the heading and in- 
crease the size of plants. The summer and fall supply of lettuce is 
usually cut short by the persistent habit of the early sown, of running 
up to seed, so that the table is usually minus this delicacy quite early 
in the season. Select a moist and somewhat shaded spot, work the 
soil fine and mellow and make very rich with well rotted stable manure, 
or better still, soak the soil thoroughly with liquid cow manure. After 
two or three days rake well and sow the seed, not too thickly, and 
cover lightly. As the plants begin to grow, thin out for use, or trans- 
planting, and the remaining ones as they get more room, will begin 
to head up nicely, and with plenty of water and good culture will give 
a supply indefinitely. Any surplus above home or market use will be 
profitable for poultry, especially if kept in confinement. 

Mustard is a very healthful and desirable salad, but the seed should 
be handled with great care, and not allowed to be scattered outside the 
drill. Sow early and for succession make sowings every ten days or 
two weeks. In about twenty-five days from sowing the plants should 
be large enough to use for salads, and the rows may be thinned out as 
required for use, leaving the plants two or three inches apart to grow 
for greens. When it begins to blossom, cut it out and never allow a 
plant to set or mature its seed. Turnips when sown for early use may 
well be included in the list of salads. They can remain standing quite 
thickly in the rows until the tops have made considerable growth, 
when they make delicious greens. Thin to three or four inches in the 
row, and in hoeing invariably hoe the soil away from, and not to the 
turnips. They will make far more rapid growth, and will be less 
liable to attack from the worms. Cress (upland) should be sown as 
early as possible, and make continual sowings as long as desired. For 
early winter use sow early in the autumn, but in any case the ground 
must be very rich and mellow for the best results. Dust the plants 
with Pyrethrum to guard against insects. 



24 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 

VINE CROPS. 

Sow the early cucumber seed in the small plant or berry boxes, as 
nearly as may be, about four weeks before they could be safely trans- 
planted to the open ground ; not too early, as they should not become 
overgrown before transplanting, and they should not go into the open 
ground until all ordinary danger of frost is past. When transplant- 
ing, great care in handling is necessary, as disturbing the roots will 
seriously check, if not altogether ruin the plants. My own method is 
to plant the seeds in the small berry baskets and place them in the 
hotbed. If from any cause there is delay in planting out, so that the 
roots begin to penetrate the hotbed soil and grow fast, I place the 
baskets on boards. When ready to transplant, soak the boxes thor- 
oughly and remove the bottoms with a sharp knife, and plant box and 
all right in the ground at least an inch below the surface. Carefully 
draw in fine soil about the plants until the surface is level, and if well 
done the plants will receive no check. The plants should, of course, 
be hardened off in the cold frames before going into the open ground. 
Follow the same plan with the muskmelons and watermelons. The 
late cucumbers, squash and pumpkins will do well enough planted in 
the open ground. The hills for all the vine crops should be bounti- 
fully supplied with well rotted manure thoroughly worked into the 
soil. Allowing about 105 to 130 days for the late squashes to mature, 
it is well to delay the planting as late as possible, as there will be less 
danger from the ravages of the bugs. When sufficient fruits have 
set, it is well to clip back the vines and keep them so pruned to con- 
siderable extent. The seeds of the small early pie pumpkins may be 
put in the hills of early corn after that is well started. They will not 
interfere to any extent with cultivation, and will make rapid growth 
after the corn is out of the way. Clipping back the vines will also 
give a better crop of pumpkins. Select long-keeping varieties, as 
many of them will, if properly stored, keep perfectly until February 
or March. For late cucumbers, a safe rule is to plant when black- 
berries are in bloom and a liberal supply of seed is at least a safe- 
guard against the bugs. It helps to satisfy their appetites, and the 
surplus vines can be pulled out when desired. The best preventives of 
the ravages of the Striped squash beetle and Black squash-bug are very 
rich soil and good culture, and the best remedies are cayenne pepper, 
tobacco dust, air-slacked lime, ashes and Bordeaux Mixture. These 
in the order named and applied while the dew is on. Use tobacco 
dust very sparingly if at all on watermelon vines; it may be used 
more plentifully on all other vines. Hunting and killing the Black 
squashbug is the best preventive or remedy against its ravages. 

TRANSPLANTING. 

The all-seasons garden is planned and detailed with the distinct 
thought or fact in view that crops well planted are more than half 
grown. Well planted not only means that the ground should under- 
go the most thorough preparation, but that the seed should have 
every possible advantage in its favor; planted not too deep, neither 
too shallow, not too early and by all means not too late. In the main, 
it has been designated what seeds should be planted early and what 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 25 

late ; what should be planted deeply and what shallow, so that by 
careful study of the directions many otherwise serious mistakes may 
be avoided. Usually there is no part of the work more recklessly 
done than the transplanting. In the matter of cabbage and cauli- 
flower, it is no uncommon sight to see the transplanted plants swelter- 
ing under a hot July sun with all their load of broad leaves trailing in 
the dust, only to tax the already overburdened plant for a few days of 
grace, and finally wither up and fall off. Why not avoid all this use- 
less waste of vitality by clipping back the large leaves at the time of 
transplanting? The same is also true of tomato plants. Cut back 
and give the roots at least a fair show for their life; the shock is 
severe enough with every possible condition in their favor. They 
may be planted very deeply, in fact, should be, especially if tall and 
inclined to grow spindling. It is my practice to clip back all lateral 
shoots, and set nearly or quite down to the lower branches. Pepper 
and Qgg plants, as also vines of running habit, will not, of course, 
stand this treatment, but disturbing the roots of such plants must be 
avoided, and I do not like the plan of pulling up any kind of plants. 
Take them up with a knife, trowel or spade, and the vine plants that 
are to be transplanted should be started in plant or berry boxes, that 
may be planted right into the soil without disturbing the roots in any 
manner whatever. 

CULTURE. 

The wheel hoe with attachments and the weeder previously de- 
scribed will fully solve the problem of garden culture. It is well to 
start the weeder on all the crops grown from seed very soon after sow- 
ing or planting. Do not wait until the plants are up, else the weeds 
will be there ahead of you. It is entirely safe to run it over nearly 
everything right from the start, only it must not run too deeply over 
seeds covered shallow. Start early and keep at it, and very much 
hand weeding will be avoided. As soon as the potatoes begin to 
break through the ground, take the wheel hoe with the plows set 
apart, and mold boards turning in, and run it astride the row, entire- 
ly covering the plants. They will soon break through the till again 
but the weeds will be buried. The corn is handled in the same way, 
only do not cover it, but throw the soil right into the soil. After 
going astride the rows as above, take off the plows and set the hoes 
closely together, and work between the rows, which will keep the 
surface entirely level, except directly in the hills, and weeds cannot 
live where the hoes are properly used. With all other vegetables, set the 
hoes apart sufificiently just to allow the plants to pass between them 
without cutting, go astride the row, and afterwards, if rows are so far 
apart that all the surface between has not been worked, set the hoes 
closely together and work between the rows. This is why I previous- 
ly advised never bothering with the single wheel. With this method 
of culture very little hand weeding is necessary ; but of course thin- 
ning must be done by pulling out or cutting out with a narrow sharp 
hoe. 

Vigorous Growth. The table qualities of all vegetables depend 
very largely upon vigorous growth. No vegetable grown under un- 



26 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



favorable conditions will ever reach anything like perfection. So 
then, for best results conditions should be as nearly right as possible. 
These conditions, in so far as man is able to control, are good seed, 
thoroughly prepared seed bed, careful planting and diligent cultivation. 
With man's part properly attended to, Nature will usually answer for 
the rest. 






THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 27 



CHAPTER V. 

POSSIBILITIES OF THE SMALL GARDEN. 

It is often very difficult for the owners or occupants of small 
grounds to see that anything in the way of flower or vegetable grow- 
ing can be accomplished, and chiefly for the reason that their grounds 
are small. Hence it is that the back yards of so many suburban and 
village homes are merely grass plots, or worse still, only weed and rub- 
bish patches. If these idle yards and vacant spaces were only devoted 
to the useful and beautiful, if the boys and girls were encouraged and 
carefully taught how to make them so, the parents would be spared 
many heartaches. Heartaches over the waywardness or vicious habits 
of their children who are simply starving for something to do. 

Now what can be done with the small yard ? One instance of what 
has been done may perhaps solve the problem for many others. A few 
years ago our home was a six-room cottage on a lot 32.xl05 feet with 
shed 16x20 feet occupying the rear end of the lot. The entire space 
between the house and shed was 32x45 feet, with a brick walk 2% 
feet extending the whole length, and a grass plot 14x20 feet, which 
must be deducted. Exclusive of potatoes and sweet corn, that space, 
what little there was, furnished the entire vegetable supply for a fam- 
ily of three adults and considerable company as well, for the entire 
Summer, besides much given away and considerable more put up for 
Winter. Did we eat anything? Well, the male gardener always 
managed to tip the beam at over 200 pounds, while the female florist 
never went hungry longer than to prepare a meal, and as to visitors, 
they ate and returned and "further, deponent sayeth not.'' 

WHAT WAS GROWN. 

In vegetables, we had onions, radishes and lettuce to eat and give 
away; beets and cabbage, peas, two varieties, both to eat and cheer 
our neighbors with ; Lima beans, a plentiful supply for use while green, 
and some to store for Winter; sage and parsley in abundance; Ford- 
hook squashes, and tomatoes for the Summer, and the entire Winter 
supply for canning. Upon taking possession of the place, we found 
already growing one large clump of lilacs, one two-year-old peach tree, 
six currant bushes just coming into bearing, and a strawberry patch 
from which 12 quarts of berries were picked. In vines, we had cinna- 
mon, wild cucumber and morning glories in profusion; in flowers 
(perennials) were ferns and wild flowers, sweet william, larkspur and 
hollyhocks; in annuals, phlox, petunias, salvia, mignonette, asters, 
balsams, nasturtiums, pansies, ageratum, sweet peas, candytuft and 
pinks. 

The shed, with runway on the common, was used for the hens, from 
which came the egg supply, and two sittings sold at $2 per sitting, 
and 13 finely-bred chicks. This may seem a fairy tale, but it was 
actual experience, and not theories figured out on paper as possibili- 
ties. Much of the work was done in a hap-hazard sort of way, with 
hardly a thought as to what might be accomplished. Much more 



28 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 

might have been done, with careful attention to rotation, the help of 
a hotbed, and the idea of keeping every foot of ground constantly oc- 
cupied and at work. The results are given not boastingly, but simply 
to encourage and help others to do as well or even better than we did. 
With a little forethought and labor many dwellers on small city or 
village lots might enjoy the luxury of small fruits and crisp tender 
vegetables of their own growing, and at the same time beautify other- 
wise unsightly buildings and areas. For Lima beans no better place 
than the south and east sides of such buildings can be found. Make 
the soil rich and mellow, and when the apple trees are in bloom plant 
the beans (eyes down) about one inch deep and 12 inches apart. Use 
coarse wool twine for the vines to climb, which they will do as readily 
as does a morning glory. Early Siebert and King of the Garden are 
our favorite varieties. Grapevines and even peach trees can be trained 
to such a wall, by proper pruning, and securing the branches by nail- 
ing strips of leather over them. 

Eight or 10 roots of rhubarb, a Spring luxury, will furnish an ordi- 
nary family an abundant supply. Linnaeus is the best for early use, 
though not as large as Victoria or Mammoth. An asparagus bed 3x6 
feet will yield several dollars' worth each season if properly cared for, 
and will last for 20 years. Anyone who has tested the difference be- 
tween home-grown salads and those purchased from the grocery or 
market will gladly give time and space to grow a few rows of lettuce, 
endive, chicory, dandelion, mustard, parsley, and cress. Several of 
these are useful as greens, and for garnishes. Raspberries, red and 
black ; blackberries, currants and gooseberry bushes can be set close to 
the tight board fences which ordinarily enclose city lots, and if pruned 
and cared for, yield rich harvests, as well as hide the ugliness of the 
fence. Caring for the fruits and vegetables will keep the boys and 
girls off the street, and give them an interest in the home and a love 
for Mother Nature as nothing else can. 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 29 



CHAPTER VI. 

STORING VEGETABLES. 

Celery. Small quantities are easily stored in trenches. These 
should be made where the ground is high and dry, with no danger of 
flooding. The trenches should be one foot in width and as deep as 
the stalks are high. Leave the soil in bottom of trench loose, and set 
the plants closely together on the loose bottom earth. Nail boards 
together, V-shape, and turn over the trenches to shed the water, and 
cover over all with straw or other litter as cold weather demands. In 
this way, the temperature can be controlled much more easily than by 
covering the trenches with straw and earth. Hotbed storage is quite 
common, and also convenient, provided one has the hotbeds. They can 
be banked with earth and covered with boards and manure sufficient 
to protect from both water and frost. The celery should be set closely 
together in upright position and never packed in piles. The hotbeds 
are really convenient, if they are at hand. The most convenient stor- 
age for the family supply is to pack in boxes in the cellar. Select a 
dark part of the cellar and use damp sand for the roots. Keep the 
sand moist, and considerable growth will be made, and the blanching 
will be perfect. 

TURNIPS AND RUTABAGAS 

These, like the cabbages, have so strong an odor that they are unfit 
for storage in the house cellar. They keep freshest and in nicest con- 
dition, if pitted; and instead of covering first with straw, cover with 
earth, allowing it to sift through among the vegetables all it will. 
Then when there is danger of too much freezing use the straw or ma- 
nure, and a second covering of earth if needed. They, too, are more 
tender and crisp after a good freeze, but better to hold them thus than 
allow them to thaw and freeze again. 

CABBAGE. 

In storing dig a pit four feet wide and deep enough to hold four or 
five tiers, and any length required. A layer of straw, leaves or corn- 
stalks perfectly dry and clean will cover the bottom to the depth of 
three or four inches. After cutting off the stumps and removing all 
outside leaves, the cabbage will be packed in tiers, stump ends up- 
ward. Above ground they will be sloped to a peak and covered with 
straw and earth to the depth of six to eight inches. If they freeze 
that will be all right, only they will then be covered with manure and 
more earth, to hold them in the frozen condition. Steady freezing 
will do no harm, but the freezing and thawing with every change of 
weather is what works the mischief. A dry condition and steady tem- 
perature are the essentials for safe keeping. 

ONIONS. 

Considerable care is necessary in storing onions to carry them over 
winter without loss. They should be entirely free from dampness, 



30 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 

when put away. Store in level condition and never in deep piles. 
Give plenty of air but keep in as cool condition as possible. They 
will keep well in frozen condition, provided they can be kept thus, un- 
til required for use. Thaw out gradually as required for use and do 
not allow them to freeze and thaw. At all events they should be kept 
cool enough to prevent growth of the tops. If freezing is attempted, 
let them freeze entirely through, then cover with straw, leaves or chaff 
thickly enough that weather changes will not affect them. 

OTHER VEGETABLES. 

The beets, carrots, parsnips and salsify are not at all objectionable 
in the cellar, but are much nicer and fresher if pitted in the loose 
earth. We like them best fresh from the soil in which they grew. So 
if some are stored in the cellar for use in the coldest weather, I prefer 
to cover them with garden soil right on the cellar bottom. Whatever 
parsnips and salsify are carried over for Spring use are best left stand- 
ing in the rows as they grew, but as top growth starts early in Spring 
they should be taken out then, as they soon become worthless once the 
tops start to grow. 

PUMPKINS AND SQUASHES. 

There is sufficient genuine Yankee blood in our family to keep up a 
steady and strong demand for pumpkin pie. We have resorted to 
canning and drying the pumpkin, but find it more satisfactory to carry 
them through in their natural state. For this purpose we find the 
Mammoth varieties, as Potiron, Mammoth Tours, or the genuine pie 
pumpkins as Japanese, Tennessee Sweet Potato, Winter Luxury, etc., 
far more satisfactory than the ordinary field sort. We find no diffi- 
culty in carrying the above sorts through to late March in perfectly 
sound condition. They are all of the very best quality, and we dis- 
cover but little, if any best quality in any one of them. Our only ob- 
jection to the Mammoth for our own use is, that notwithstanding our 
keen relish for the pies and an earnest desire to do all we can, it is 
nevertheless asking a little too much of a family of four to tackle an 
80 or 100-pound pumpkin with a view of caring for the whole of it be- 
fore wasting. We have always found ready sale for them among the 
bakeries where larger quantities are required, and we like them very 
much for their feeding qualities. So we reserve the smaller varieties 
of the genuine pie pumpkins for our own use, and a scanty supply 
always gives us a lonesome, homesick feeling. We have succeeded 
best with the Winter supply to keep them in a cool, dry place just as 
long as possible without freezing. Then remove them to a dry garret 
beyond the danger of frost; but always with plenty of air. The Winter 
squashes are handled in the same way, but in either case we are care- 
ful to remove any that become affected as they always breed trouble. 



Index. 

CHAPTER I. 
Location — Soil — Fertilizer 3 

CHAPTER n. 

Hot Beds and Frames S 

Where to Locate Them 6 

Filling the Bed — How Deep to Fill — When to Start the Beds 7 

Management of the Hot Beds — Moisture 8 

CHAPTER HI. 

All Season's Garden — List of Seeds and Plants 9 

Period of Germination 10 

Maturity Table 11 

Diagram — All Season's Garden 14 

CHAPTER IV. 

Planting the Garden — Asparagus IS 

Herbs — Rhubarb 16 

Raspberries — Strawberries 17 

Beans — Cabbage 18 

Celery — Corn 19 

Egg Plant — Endive — Early Peas — Early Tomatoes • 20 

Kohl Rabi — Onions — Potatoes 21 

Peppers — Parsnips and Salsify 22 

Salads 23 

Vine Crops — Transplanting 24 

Culture 25 

CHAPTER V. 

Possibilities of the Small Garden — What was Grown 27 

CHAPTER VL 

Storing Vegetables — Cabbage — Onions 29 

Other Vegetables — Pumpkins and Squashes 30 



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